Installation information

CARBURETOR CASE/INDUCTION KIT
INSTALLATION





Thank you for purchasing one of our
Carburetor Cases and or a complete ram
air induction kits. We hope you enjoy not
only the new look, but also the increased
performance.



Installation of the carburetor case is a
fairly straightforward process, but
attention needs to be paid when placing
the filter in.



Step One.

Remove your old air filter assembly,
making sure not to drop the wing nut or
anything else down into the carburetor.
Check the carburetor to air filter gasket.
Make sure there are not rips or tears in it.
If you didn’t have one, you need to get one.
This can be a potential opening for tiny
particles to work their way into your
engine.



Step Two.

Place the Carburetor Case onto the
Carburetor. Many measurements have
been taken into consideration to hopefully
clear any engine pieces, but with all the
different engine combinations and
accessories out there, it is impossible to
make every carb case fit like a glove
every time. Be sure to check that the
base of the carb case sits flush against
the lip of the carburetor. Move it around a
little making sure it clears everything and
there are no problems with it hitting the
distributor, valve cover breather covers,
THE THROTTLE LINKAGE. When you are
satisfied that there are no clearance
issues remove the carb case. If there are
clearance issues, most times this can be
solved with an air cleaner spacer. They
are made out of plastic and come in
varying heights and are relatively
inexpensive. They can be purchased
online at www.sumittracing.com or www.
jegs.com. OR you can go down to your
local speed shop and give them the
business.



Step Three.

If you received the carb case in bare
metal, you will have removed the air filter
and rubber edging, when you
painted/powder coated it. If you haven’t
done so already, replace the rubber
edging and filter. IMPORTANT! BE SURE
THE FILTER SEATS ITSELF INTO THE
BOTTOM FULLY. This can be checked by
looking through the inlets. The filter
should fit fairly snug between the rubber
edging along the upper lip of the carb
case. In some cases the filter has to be
worked somewhat to fit down perfectly,
but it will eventually fit in its proper place.
We test every filter placement before it
leaves our shop, making sure it will seat
correctly. If you ordered the stock car
style (flat lid) you will need to place the
foam seal on the bottom of the lid so it
sits on top of the air filter when the lid is
screwed onto the carb case. To do this,
place the lid bottom side up. Take the
filter and place it on the lids bottom.
Adjust the filter so it corresponds
placement as if it where in the carb case.
Take a pencil and lightly trace the inside
circle of the filter. Remove the filter. Now
use the traced circle as a guide to attach
the foam seal. Try to place the foam seal
in the center of where the air filter sits.
THIS SHOULD BE DONE AFTER YOU HAVE
PAINTED/POWDERCOATED IT. NOTE: Once
you have painted/powder coated your
carb case take a sealer used to seal
windows. I suggest using the 100%
silicone and place it into a caulking gun.
Put the sealer on the inside lower edge
where the side meets the bottom and lay
a bead. Use your finger to press it
smooth. Now do the same on the upper
inside edge. Now on the bottom outside,
run another bead and smooth out where
the case is welded to the base. This seals
the case and helps pressurize it and
force the air down into the carburetor. If
you already received your case
painted/powder coated, this will already
have been done for you. If any silicone
seeps through any edges, wait for it to dry
and use a razor blade and skim the edges
off.



Step Four.

Now replace the carburetor case with
filter seated correctly inside onto the
carburetor. Be sure to use a carburetor
air cleaner gasket. Now place the lid
down over the carburetor stud and
tighten the wing nut. Be sure the lids foam
seal seats against the top of the air filter
itself. You may have to adjust the length of
the carburetor stud to achieve proper
seating of the foam seal. To check this,
once the wing nut has been tightened,
take your hand and see how easy the
carb case moves from side to side. It
should not be able to be moved easily. It
should feel snug. If you purchased our
stock car style carb case, you may want
to put the lid on with the accompanying
fasteners before you place the carb case
over the carb stud.



THIS COMPLETES THE INSTALLATION OF
THE CARBURETOR CASE. IF YOU
PURCHASED A COMPLETE KIT, READ ON.



Step Five.

Now install the spoiler. Use the
accompanying instructions for spoiler
installation.



Step Six.

Now route the industrial tubing from the
spoiler to the carb case. Take your time
and be sure to keep the tubing away from
any moving objects such as fans and
belts. Keep the tubing off the exhaust!!



Step Seven.

Place an aluminum collar around each
end of hose. Now place a stainless steel t-
bolt clamp around the collar and tubing
end. Tighten down snugly. Do this for the
remaining ends.



Step Eight.

Take one last look making sure nothing is
interfering with the standard operation of
the motor vehicle, such throttle linkages,
fan belts, fans, etc.



Take the car out for a spin. There should
be a noticeable difference in the seat of
the pants. How much depends on how
well the old set up flowed air. In any case
the engine is now receiving the ambient
outside air temperature, instead of the
blistering under hood heat, which is
always a good thing. In some cases you
will notice a big difference to the point the
carb may need to be jetted up. As with all
jetting practices, start out with one
number higher and continue until
performance starts to dip. DO THIS AT
YOUR LOCAL “LEGAL” DRAGSTRIP. Keep
an eye on the plugs for lean or rich
conditions.



I recommend using a high flow air filter
for added performance. Keep an eye on
the filter, making sure no clogging
occurs. I have yet to receive any feedback
with clogging problems, but this is a ram
air set up.



Hope you enjoy our product. Great care is
taken into each and every hand made
item we produce. Please feel free to
email us with photos of your finished
installation. We will post them on our
website.



If you have any questions or concerns,
please feel free to contact us.



Thank you again.

SPOILER INSTALLATION



Thank you for purchasing one of our
spoilers. These spoilers are all made by
hand one at a time and we feel they not only
enhance the aesthetics of the vehicle, but
also the functionality.



Step One.

Remove old spoiler including any spoiler
support braces. If you are jacking your car
up to gain better access, PLEASE USE
QUALITY JACK STANDS TO HOLD THE
VEHICLE UP, No spoiler or car for that
matter is worth the risk of serious injury or
death. So be smart and take the time to use
a set of jack stands.



Step Two.

Using the large center bolt (1967-1968) or
the two large center bolts (1969), lift the
spoiler into position and screw the large
bolt/bolts into place. DO NOT TORQUE
DOWN AT THIS TIME. Leave them finger
tight where it just holds the spoiler against
the lower lip of the valance.



Step Three.

Align the two outer holes up and insert the
bolt and nut used to hold the old spoiler and
finger tighten them. You should now have
both ends and center of the spoiler being
held in place.





Step Four.

Now bolt up the remaining middle bolts.
With all the bolts now finger tightened and
all boltholes used, torque the large middle
bolt/bolts down, then work your way from
the middle toward the outside bolts. If the
spoiler bolt holes are not lining up with the
holes in the valance. (This should not be the
case of the large center bolts) a 3/16th hole
will need to be drilled. This will be the case
for the middle holes on our INDUCTION
Spoilers.



Step Five.

Now take your car for a ride being careful
to know where your spoiler is relative to the
road. Most of our spoilers are shorter than
the stock, or right at the same
measurement and in most cases have no
problem clearing normal road conditions.
BUT! Only you know your vehicle. If your old
spoiler scraped a certain places, be careful
to see how your new spoiler does.  



PLEASE NOTE!!

Use only quality fasteners with a locking
nut or at the minimum a lock washer! If the
old plastic spoiler was to fall off, no biggie,
its plastic. NOT with this one, you don’t
want to run over a steel spoiler at speed
due to some bolt backing off.



Due to the construction and design of our
spoilers, no support braces are needed.
UNIVERAL FABRICATION KIT Step One. Please determine if you have the proper tools and skill to fabricate the area needed to hold the tubing and filter(s) before you start cutting. Step two. Determine the area for which you would like to mount the filter and tubing. For best results, the filter needs to be in a place as far away from the exhaust manifolds as possible and as close to fresh incoming air. We have found the area in front of the fender wells, below the upper edge of the fender and behind the radiator support to be an ideal location. Be sure you have adequate tubing to reach the desired area. Step three. Take your poster board and cut a piece out slightly larger than the area you want to mount the sheet metal plate(s). Trace around the contours of the fender well, radiator support and fender edges. Now cut the poster board and place it again to the desired area, making sure for a nice clean and tight fit. DON’T RUSH THIS. You will more than likely not get it on the first try. Work with it until you are satisfied everything fits just right. Step four. Now take your poster board template and place it on the sheet metal plate. Trace around and cut it out. Now place it up to your desired area. Hopefully everything will line up nicely. Use the provided 90-degree angled sheet metal where needed to frame up the area, giving you something to screw the plating to. Normally you will use the fenders lip and the angled metal on the bottom area. You will need to determine how you want to mount the assembly at this point. The assembly will consist of the plate, flange and filter as one unit. You can use sheet metal screws to screw the assembly into the framed area, but this method isn’t the most eye appealing nor do you want to use sheet metal screws if your using the lower inner lip of the fender as one of the supports. I suggest marking your mounting points and use a fine thread tap with matching hardware for the lower inner lip. This will take some figuring on your setup, what can be tapped and what can’t. Another suggestion is to use JB weld or similar epoxy and use it to hold corresponding nuts on the blind sides. Or if you are the man, simply weld some threaded inserts in place and be done with it. Now loosely mount the plate. Step five. Now take the tubing/filter-mounting flange and place it on the sheet metal and determine where you would like it. Trace around it. Now take the plating off and cut the hole out. Now place the mounting flange into the plate and mark you holes to mount it. Drill the holes out using a 3/16th bit. Step six. Now mount the flange onto the plate using the supplied hardware. Mount the filter. Place a piece of rubber edging along the portion that rests on the fender well or anywhere you see fit. Not mount the assembly into place. Step seven. Now that everything measures up and looks good, disassembly everything and paint it. Then reassemble. NOW GO BACK TO STEP SIX IN THE MAIN INSTRUCTIONS. UNIVERAL FABRICATION KIT Step One. Please determine if you have the proper tools and skill to fabricate the area needed to hold the tubing and filter(s) before you start cutting. Step two. Determine the area for which you would like to mount the filter and tubing. For best results, the filter needs to be in a place as far away from the exhaust manifolds as possible and as close to fresh incoming air. We have found the area in front of the fender wells, below the upper edge of the fender and behind the radiator support to be an ideal location. Be sure you have adequate tubing to reach the desired area. Step three. Take your poster board and cut a piece out slightly larger than the area you want to mount the sheet metal plate(s). Trace around the contours of the fender well, radiator support and fender edges. Now cut the poster board and place it again to the desired area, making sure for a nice clean and tight fit. DON’T RUSH THIS. You will more than likely not get it on the first try. Work with it until you are satisfied everything fits just right. Step four. Now take your poster board template and place it on the sheet metal plate. Trace around and cut it out. Now place it up to your desired area. Hopefully everything will line up nicely. Use the provided 90-degree angled sheet metal where needed to frame up the area, giving you something to screw the plating to. Normally you will use the fenders lip and the angled metal on the bottom area. You will need to determine how you want to mount the assembly at this point. The assembly will consist of the plate, flange and filter as one unit. You can use sheet metal screws to screw the assembly into the framed area, but this method isn’t the most eye appealing nor do you want to use sheet metal screws if your using the lower inner lip of the fender as one of the supports. I suggest marking your mounting points and use a fine thread tap with matching hardware for the lower inner lip. This will take some figuring on your setup, what can be tapped and what can’t. Another suggestion is to use JB weld or similar epoxy and use it to hold corresponding nuts on the blind sides. Or if you are the man, simply weld some threaded inserts in place and be done with it. Now loosely mount the plate. Step five. Now take the tubing/filter-mounting flange and place it on the sheet metal and determine where you would like it. Trace around it. Now take the plating off and cut the hole out. Now place the mounting flange into the plate and mark you holes to mount it. Drill the holes out using a 3/16th bit. Step six. Now mount the flange onto the plate using the supplied hardware. Mount the filter. Place a piece of rubber edging along the portion that rests on the fender well or anywhere you see fit. Not mount the assembly into place. Step seven. Now that everything measures up and looks good, disassembly everything and paint it. Then reassemble. NOW GO BACK TO STEP SIX IN THE MAIN INSTRUCTIONS. UNIVERAL FABRICATION KIT Step One. Please determine if you have the proper tools and skill to fabricate the area needed to hold the tubing and filter(s) before you start cutting. Step two. Determine the area for which you would like to mount the filter and tubing. For best results, the filter needs to be in a place as far away from the exhaust manifolds as possible and as close to fresh incoming air. We have found the area in front of the fender wells, below the upper edge of the fender and behind the radiator support to be an ideal location. Be sure you have adequate tubing to reach the desired area. Step three. Take your poster board and cut a piece out slightly larger than the area you want to mount the sheet metal plate(s). Trace around the contours of the fender well, radiator support and fender edges. Now cut the poster board and place it again to the desired area, making sure for a nice clean and tight fit. DON’T RUSH THIS. You will more than likely not get it on the first try. Work with it until you are satisfied everything fits just right. Step four. Now take your poster board template and place it on the sheet metal plate. Trace around and cut it out. Now place it up to your desired area. Hopefully everything will line up nicely. Use the provided 90-degree angled sheet metal where needed to frame up the area, giving you something to screw the plating to. Normally you will use the fenders lip and the angled metal on the bottom area. You will need to determine how you want to mount the assembly at this point. The assembly will consist of the plate, flange and filter as one unit. You can use sheet metal screws to screw the assembly into the framed area, but this method isn’t the most eye appealing nor do you want to use sheet metal screws if your using the lower inner lip of the fender as one of the supports. I suggest marking your mounting points and use a fine thread tap with matching hardware for the lower inner lip. This will take some figuring on your setup, what can be tapped and what can’t. Another suggestion is to use JB weld or similar epoxy and use it to hold corresponding nuts on the blind sides. Or if you are the man, simply weld some threaded inserts in place and be done with it. Now loosely mount the plate. Step five. Now take the tubing/filter-mounting flange and place it on the sheet metal and determine where you would like it. Trace around it. Now take the plating off and cut the hole out. Now place the mounting flange into the plate and mark you holes to mount it. Drill the holes out using a 3/16th bit. Step six. Now mount the flange onto the plate using the supplied hardware. Mount the filter. Place a piece of rubber edging along the portion that rests on the fender well or anywhere you see fit. Not mount the assembly into place. Step seven. Now that everything measures up and looks good, disassembly everything and paint it. Then reassemble. NOW GO BACK TO STEP SIX IN THE MAIN INSTRUCTIONS. UNIVERAL FABRICATION KIT Step One. Please determine if you have the proper tools and skill to fabricate the area needed to hold the tubing and filter(s) before you start cutting. Step two. Determine the area for which you would like to mount the filter and tubing. For best results, the filter needs to be in a place as far away from the exhaust manifolds as possible and as close to fresh incoming air. We have found the area in front of the fender wells, below the upper edge of the fender and behind the radiator support to be an ideal location. Be sure you have adequate tubing to reach the desired area. Step three. Take your poster board and cut a piece out slightly larger than the area you want to mount the sheet metal plate(s). Trace around the contours of the fender well, radiator support and fender edges. Now cut the poster board and place it again to the desired area, making sure for a nice clean and tight fit. DON’T RUSH THIS. You will more than likely not get it on the first try. Work with it until you are satisfied everything fits just right. Step four. Now take your poster board template and place it on the sheet metal plate. Trace around and cut it out. Now place it up to your desired area. Hopefully everything will line up nicely. Use the provided 90-degree angled sheet metal where needed to frame up the area, giving you something to screw the plating to. Normally you will use the fenders lip and the angled metal on the bottom area. You will need to determine how you want to mount the assembly at this point. The assembly will consist of the plate, flange and filter as one unit. You can use sheet metal screws to screw the assembly into the framed area, but this method isn’t the most eye appealing nor do you want to use sheet metal screws if your using the lower inner lip of the fender as one of the supports. I suggest marking your mounting points and use a fine thread tap with matching hardware for the lower inner lip. This will take some figuring on your setup, what can be tapped and what can’t. Another suggestion is to use JB weld or similar epoxy and use it to hold corresponding nuts on the blind sides. Or if you are the man, simply weld some threaded inserts in place and be done with it. Now loosely mount the plate. Step five. Now take the tubing/filter-mounting flange and place it on the sheet metal and determine where you would like it. Trace around it. Now take the plating off and cut the hole out. Now place the mounting flange into the plate and mark you holes to mount it. Drill the holes out using a 3/16th bit. Step six. Now mount the flange onto the plate using the supplied hardware. Mount the filter. Place a piece of rubber edging along the portion that rests on the fender well or anywhere you see fit. Not mount the assembly into place. Step seven. Now that everything measures up and looks good, disassembly everything and paint it. Then reassemble. NOW GO BACK TO STEP SIX IN THE MAIN INSTRUCTIONS. UNIVERAL FABRICATION KIT Step One. Please determine if you have the proper tools and skill to fabricate the area needed to hold the tubing and filter(s) before you start cutting. Step two. Determine the area for which you would like to mount the filter and tubing. For best results, the filter needs to be in a place as far away from the exhaust manifolds as possible and as close to fresh incoming air. We have found the area in front of the fender wells, below the upper edge of the fender and behind the radiator support to be an ideal location. Be sure you have adequate tubing to reach the desired area. Step three. Take your poster board and cut a piece out slightly larger than the area you want to mount the sheet metal plate(s). Trace around the contours of the fender well, radiator support and fender edges. Now cut the poster board and place it again to the desired area, making sure for a nice clean and tight fit. DON’T RUSH THIS. You will more than likely not get it on the first try. Work with it until you are satisfied everything fits just right. Step four. Now take your poster board template and place it on the sheet metal plate. Trace around and cut it out. Now place it up to your desired area. Hopefully everything will line up nicely. Use the provided 90-degree angled sheet metal where needed to frame up the area, giving you something to screw the plating to. Normally you will use the fenders lip and the angled metal on the bottom area. You will need to determine how you want to mount the assembly at this point. The assembly will consist of the plate, flange and filter as one unit. You can use sheet metal screws to screw the assembly into the framed area, but this method isn’t the most eye appealing nor do you want to use sheet metal screws if your using the lower inner lip of the fender as one of the supports. I suggest marking your mounting points and use a fine thread tap with matching hardware for the lower inner lip. This will take some figuring on your setup, what can be tapped and what can’t. Another suggestion is to use JB weld or similar epoxy and use it to hold corresponding nuts on the blind sides. Or if you are the man, simply weld some threaded inserts in place and be done with it. Now loosely mount the plate. Step five. Now take the tubing/filter-mounting flange and place it on the sheet metal and determine where you would like it. Trace around it. Now take the plating off and cut the hole out. Now place the mounting flange into the plate and mark you holes to mount it. Drill the holes out using a 3/16th bit. Step six. Now mount the flange onto the plate using the supplied hardware. Mount the filter. Place a piece of rubber edging along the portion that rests on the fender well or anywhere you see fit. Not mount the assembly into place. Step seven. Now that everything measures up and looks good, disassembly everything and paint it. Then reassemble. NOW GO BACK TO STEP SIX IN THE MAIN INSTRUCTIONS. UNIVERSAL FABRICATION KIT



Step One.



Please determine if you have the proper
tools and skill to fabricate the area needed
to hold the tubing and filter(s) before you
start cutting.



Step two.



Determine the area for which you would
like to mount the filter and tubing. For best
results, the filter needs to be in a place as
far away from the exhaust manifolds as
possible and as close to fresh incoming air.
We have found the area in front of the
fender wells, below the upper edge of the
fender and behind the radiator support to
be an ideal location. Be sure you have
adequate tubing to reach the desired area.



Step three.



Take your poster board and cut a piece out
slightly larger than the area you want to
mount the sheet metal plate(s). Trace
around the contours of the fender well,
radiator support and fender edges. Now cut
the poster board and place it again to the
desired area, making sure for a nice clean
and tight fit. DON’T RUSH THIS.  You will
more than likely not get it on the first try.
Work with it until you are satisfied
everything fits just right.



Step four.



Now take your poster board template and
place it on the sheet metal plate. Trace
around and cut it out. Now place it up to
your desired area. Hopefully everything will
line up nicely. Use the provided 90-degree
angled sheet metal where needed to frame
up the area, giving you something to screw
the plating to. Normally you will use the
fenders lip and the angled metal on the
bottom area. You will need to determine
how you want to mount the assembly at
this point. The assembly will consist of the
plate, flange and filter as one unit. You can
use sheet metal screws to screw the
assembly into the framed area, but this
method isn’t the most eye appealing nor do
you want to use sheet metal screws if your
using the lower inner lip of the fender as
one of the supports. I suggest marking your
mounting points and use a fine thread tap
with matching hardware for the lower inner
lip. This will take some figuring on your
setup, what can be tapped and what can’t.
Another suggestion is to use JB weld or
similar epoxy and use it to hold
corresponding nuts on the blind sides. Or if
you are the man, simply weld some
threaded inserts in place and be done with
it. Now loosely mount the plate.



Step five.



Now take the tubing/filter-mounting flange
and place it on the sheet metal and
determine where you would like it. Trace
around it. Now take the plating off and cut
the hole out. Now place the mounting flange
into the plate and mark you holes to mount
it. Drill the holes out using a 3/16th bit.



Step six.



Now mount the flange onto the plate using
the supplied hardware. Mount the filter.
Place a piece of rubber edging along the
portion that rests on the fender well or
anywhere you see fit. Not mount the
assembly into place.



Step seven.



Now that everything measures up and
looks good, disassembly everything and
paint it. Then reassemble.



NOW GO BACK TO STEP SIX IN THE MAIN
INSTRUCTIONS.
***ATTENTION*** INSIDE OF CASE MUST BE SEALED WITH SILICONE ON THE BOTTOM CHANNEL AND TOP WHERE THE SIDE OF THE CASE JOINS THE LOWER BASE AND TOP EDGE AND ALSO ALONG THE INSIDE BOTTOM OF THE TUBING WHERE THE ARE JOINED. PLEASE REFER TO THE MAIN INSTRUCTIONS FOR FURTHER DETAILS. ***ATTENTION***



INSIDE OF CASE MUST BE SEALED
WITH SILICONE ON THE BOTTOM
CHANNEL AND TOP WHERE THE
SIDE OF THE CASE JOINS THE
LOWER BASE AND TOP EDGE AND
ALSO ALONG THE INSIDE BOTTOM
OF THE TUBING WHERE THE ARE
JOINED. PLEASE REFER TO THE
MAIN INSTRUCTIONS FOR
FURTHER DETAILS.
Pro Spoilers Inc. Muscle Induction
installation information for our
Ram Air induction cold air intake
Carburetor Cases, ram air
induction pieces and ram air
induction kits, and ram air
induction front spoilers and non
air induction front spoilers.
We are currently closed
during the prototyping and
testing of our new products.

Thank You for checking
back
Cole and Marlo Rheal